Walk the Dog - the pet care and behaviour company

Tuesday 14 December 2010

Currently recruiting for a Pet Carer role at Walk the Dog

Do you love animals and being outdoors? If you are interest in animal care, welfare and management? If the answer is yes, then why not join our team.


We are currently recruiting for a pet carer. Job requirements include:

  • over 18 years of age
  • hard working
  • flexible
  • passionate about animals
  • hold a full clean drivers licence and own transport
  • enjoy being outdoors and walking whatever the weather
  • ideally certification in Animal Care/Management or Behaviour
  • have experience of petcare or working with animals
  • live in the Berkhamsted or surrounding areas (less than 20mins)
  • available between the hours of 9.30am to 4pm
  • willing to learn about animal first aid and animal behaviour
The Pet Carer role includes:
- dog walking
- pet care and feeds for small companion animals while owners are away (incl. weekend work)
- assisting with Walk the Dog events, workshops and fairs (ad hoc bases)
- assistance with Walk the Dog Puppy School (ad hoc basis)
- dog sitting

Contract is pay as you earn.

If you would like to apply for the role of Pet Carer, please send an up to date CV with minimum of two references to; Walk the Dog, 15 Hillside Gardens, Berkhamsted, Hertfordshire HP4 2LF or email us at info@walk-the-dog.net

Friday 19 November 2010

Walk the Dog Newsletter - Winter 2010

Dear friends,



‘Tis the season to be merry and for snuggling down with our pets as we look forward to some festive fun. We’ve got a bumper packed winter issue with advice on ensuring your four-legged friend stays safe over the festive period and we meet fitness guru Andi Vincent-Jones, who shares her top tips for avoiding injury from dog walking - advice we follow at Walk the Dog. Plus, we’re delighted to launch our very own cartoon series created exclusively for Walk the Dog by artist and illustrator Ellen Tozer. And, we have all our news and a great Christmas recipe for your furry friends. Thank you for your support this year, we’ve had a blast working with you and your pets. We wish you a Merry Christmas and a very Happy New Year for 2011.

Click here to read the latest copy of our Walk the Dog newsletter for Winter '10.

Saturday 6 November 2010

New book for dog owners Playing With Your Dog

Nurture the playfulness of your pet dog! Walk the Dog founder and award winning dog behaviour specialist Hanne Grice’s new book is out in time for Christmas Playing With Your Dog, you will learn how playing enhances your pet’s natural skills.

Playing can benefit both humans and dogs in several ways.  For humans, playing is the key to developing the coordination that lets them perform their daily activities—may it be physical or social.  Playing can also help dogs in other ways. It allows a dog to use its natural behaviours by boosting its fitness and cognitive skills. This book will help any dog owner work out the games that are best suited for their pet to play throughout his life, from puppyhood to old age.


Playing With Your Dog also shares some tricks for all ages, group activities, and recommended toys that dogs will enjoy. Owners can also learn a few tips from this book to keep their pet tame while having fun. A useful guide, this book is a must-have for dog owners and lovers alike.

Click here to read an excerpt from Playing With Your Dog

Available to buy from Amazon, Tesco and most online resellers.  Or contact the Walk the Dog office to get your copy in time for Christmas.  RRP £6.99. 

Monday 26 July 2010

Aggression and the 'Feel Good Factor'

While many dog owners will tolerate a dog that pulls on the lead or is destructive when left alone, aggression is problem most owners won’t tolerate. In my role as a dog listener, I help clients understand why their dog behaves in such a way and how to deal with aggressive behaviours in a calm and consistent way.


I always ask my clients to have a vet check up prior to their consultation, particularly in cases of aggression as often physiological reasons can lead to unwanted aggressive behaviours, for example, the dog being in pain leading to increased aggressive behaviour towards its owners when touched. Understanding of the internal states and environmental influences affecting a dog’s behaviour is vital. While much focus is placed on learning theory and behaviour analysis, it’s important to appreciate the biology of behaviour and how the nervous system (which includes the brain, spine and neurons) affects the endocrine system, which is mainly responsible for chemical co-ordination within the body.

Neuropsychology is the science of the relationship between the nervous system and behaviour. And studies made by researchers at Zaragoza University in Spain, recently have found that aggressive dogs often have low levels of serotonin – which affects mood, pain, emotion, sleep and appetite.

Serotonin is often released when, for example, we eat; it gives a feeling of contentment or what I call ‘The Feel Good Factor’. Low levels of this chemical are linked to depression, anxiety, learning impairment, reduced impulse control, and aggression. Findings by the Spanish researchers back up the theory that maintaining a stable and appropriate level of serotonin activity in the brain is important to maintaining adequate impulse control and reducing aggression.

The University’s researchers took blood samples from 80 dogs which had been referred to veterinary teaching hospitals because of aggressive behaviour toward humans. The blood samples were compared to those taken from non-aggressive dogs. The aggressive dogs averaged 278 units of serotonin, while the others had 387. The aggressive dogs also had high levels of cortisol, which the body secretes as a response to stress. They averaged 21 units compared to 10 in the non-aggressive dogs.

The researchers hope the findings will lead to new ways of treating canine aggression, one of the most common reasons why dogs are euthanized. The findings back previous research that has also indicated aggressive dogs are low in serotonin. According to k9aggression.com “the use of SSRI (selective serotonin reuptake inhibitor) drugs improve the aggression problem in combination with behavior modification.” However, dog owners be aware; changing such unwanted behaviour cannot be done without behaviour modification. It seems more and more owners are turning to drugs to affect their dog’s behaviour. Psychology Today have reported there has been enough demand for Prozac for dogs that the pharmaceutical company, Eli Lilly, has created a beef-flavoured version of the drug.

If you’re experiencing problems with your dog, please contact Hanne Grice at hanne@doglistener.tv

Note: dog owners should always seek the advice of a veterinarian and certified behaviour expert when experiencing problem behaviours such as aggression.

Sunday 30 May 2010

Walk the Dog's Summer 2010 newsletter

We've got a bumper packed Summer newsletter for you!

In this issue we look at a common problem faced by many dog owners; aggression on the lead, plus we've top tips on how to have a happy cat. We unveil the results of our Dressed to the K9's competition, and chat to veterinary surgeon Chris Aylott to find out more about the work of a vet. There's all our usual features too from recommended reading to our special appeal. Catch up on the latest news including details about our Summer walk in Ashridge and the Green House Fashion Show in aid of Every Chance Rescue.

You can access our newsletter by clicking here.

If you have any stories or news you'd like us to feature, do get in touch.

Happy reading!
Hanne and the WTD team

Hot weather safety tips for your pets

We’ve had a lovely few days with the warm weather, however, while we have the luxury of changing into shorts and t-shirts, our four-legged friends aren’t as lucky being stuck with their furry coat!  So, while this warm weather continues, think about the following when walking your pets…

  
  1. Take water bottles out with you so your pet can cool down and have a drink if needed.
  2. Keep to shaded and wooded areas as much as possible to reduce any chances of your pet overheating.
  3. If your walks are across the hottest part of the day (lunchtime), monitor your pet while out walking. If you feel he is becoming overheated or in any discomfort, reduce the walking time.
  4. In the meantime, below are some useful tips on how to keep your pet safe in this heat, and signs to look out for if you suspect your pet is suffering from over heating:
  5. Pets can get easily dehydrated, ensure they have access to fresh, clean water at all times
  6. Make sure your pet has a shady or cool place to rest
  7. Avoid long walks in the mid-day heat, instead play with your pet in a shady or cooler area to reduce the risk of over heating
  8. Pets with flatter faces like Boxers, Pugs, Persian cats, struggle in the heat more than others breeds/species, as they cannot pant as effectively. Pets that are over weight, or suffering from heart and lung diseases should also be kept in cool areas
  9. Avoid leaving your pet in the car. A parked car can quickly act like a furnace, leading to fatal heat stroke
  10. If you have a paddling/swimming pool which your pet enjoys splashing around in, make sure your pet is supervised at all times. Wash your pet after swimming to ensure any chlorine or salt from the water is off his coat. Discourage your pet from drinking the swimming pool or canal water as this contains chemicals and bacteria that can lead to an upset stomach
  11. Ensure your pet cannot get access to open windows. Often in the summer, veterinarian see an increase in the number of accidents and injuries caused by pets (mainly cats) falling out of open windows
  12. Pets with a thick coat will benefit from a good groom and cut
  13. Avoid long walks on tarmac/and or pavement as the ground quickly heats up and this can burn your dog’s paws and tummy as he is low to the ground. Avoid asking for requests to “sit” at the roadside, as this too may potentially burn your dog’s bottom on a hot day!

Over heating – signs to look out for:

If your pet displays any of the following signs, you should seek veterinary attention immediately. These signs include: 

 
  • excessive panting
  • difficulty in breathing
  • increased heart and respiratory rate
  • drooling
  • mild weakness
  • stupor
  • bloody diarrhoea
  • vomiting
  • and even collapse.

 Stay safe in the sunshine and enjoy this lovely weather.

Friday 12 March 2010

The Lassie Effect


I help owners with problem dogs. Most owners understand their dog’s breed, yet understanding his behaviour can often be misinterpreted, leading to problems.

Although man and dog have been together for thousands of years, we tend to forget his ancestor is the wolf. The DNA of a wolf compared to domestic dog differs by just 1 per cent; the same difference separating one human race to another. So, while your dog looks harmless, he has the mindset of a wolf.

Art, literature and entertainment has greatly influenced our thinking leading to the anthropomorphism of dogs, I call this ‘The Lassie Effect’tm. Lassie was a Collie with the heart of a lion and the navigational skills of a pigeon. Lassie made the public believe he could think, plan, sympathise, know right from wrong, remember complicated facts and seek revenge. When Lassie appeared to be studying a situation, he was actually watching his trainer wave a rag. We humans find it easier to relate to a situation when we project our own emotions onto our dogs. If a dog chews his owner’s shoes when alone, the owner may shout at the dog when he returns home, the dog may lower his body and slink away. The owner thinks his dog learns from the telling off, some may believe the dog destroyed the shoes out of resentment or boredom for being left alone which is why he looks and acts ‘guilty’. However, the dog may be anxious and the chewing action releases endorphins that calm him down, this feeling of comfort is rewarding. When the owner comes home, the dog acts in a submissive manner to avoid punishment. Yet, the owner misinterprets the dog’s attempt at communicating “please don’t hurt me” to mean “I know I’ve done wrong”. So, the problem behaviour continues.

Find out more by visiting http://www.doglistener.tv/

Thursday 25 February 2010

Walk the Dog focus on Pet health - Forever Living products made with aloe vera



Walk the Dog, the Berkhamsted based award winning pet care company sells Forever Living products. Pet health is of prime importance to us at Walk the Dog; we use a holistic approach to dog training and we wanted to reflect this in the products we also sell. Therefore, all our products our made from only natural and pure ingredients.
Aloe Vera flourishes in warm, dry climates, and is often mistaken for a cactus, but in fact it is a member of the Lily family. When the plant is mature the contents of its leaves, a mixture of sap and gel, can be harvested, preserved and bottled as a nutritional drink or combined with other ingredients to produce topical creams and lotions to nourish and improve the skin. As a drink Aloe Vera works with our immune system, replenishing nutrients from the vast range it contains, including vitamins, minerals, amino acids and enzymes. Poor diet, stress, caffeine and over-processed foods can all lead to less than tip-top health. Aloe can help redress the balance with its wealth of essential nutrients.
The Aloe Vera plant is suitable for adults, children and animals and is known to provide the following benefits:


- combating the signs of ageing
- improving health and vitality natural cosmetics
- excellent quality and kind to skin
- skincare and specialist skincare
- personal healthcare - tooth gels, shampoo, deodorants
- animal care health products
- cleansing courses
- weight loss
- probiotic support to the immune system
- bee pollen for energy


To purchase our pet care products log onto http://www.walk-the-dog.net/ and visit our products page.

Tuesday 23 February 2010

Dressed to the K9's 2010 - Press release


‘Dressed to the K9’s’ – Kubrick to judge dog fancy dress photo competition

Walk the Dog invites dog lovers everywhere to enter their annual 'Dressed to the K9's’ Dog Fancy Dress Photo Competition, judged by renowned artist Christiane Kubrick, in aid of Every Chance Rescue (ECR).

This is Walk the Dog’s second annual online photo competition where dog owners around the country have the chance to dress up their pooch to win some fabulous prizes. This year our winner will receive a professional photographic session and 12” x 10” framed portrait of their pet, courtesy of Ian Waldron Photography worth £250, plus a luxury hamper packed full of owner and pet goodies, courtesy of Reg & Ruby Pet Accessories, Walk the Dog with their Forever Living range and life coach Vicky Kelly’s new book. The runner up will receive a luxury hamper, and the top ten entries will also receive a goodie each for their fabulous efforts.

To enter, entrants simply dress up their dog letting their imaginations run wild, submit their photograph via the easy to complete entry form on our competition website at http://www.dressedtothek9s.com/ . Entries can also be sent via post. The competition is in aid of Every Chance Rescue, a non-profit organisation that provides kennelling, foster and veterinary care, dog training and support for unwanted dogs, helping to find them their forever home. We’re looking for donations no matter how big or small from our entrants – as every penny helps. Donations can be made via our competition website or by cheque and sent in the post.

Last year our judge was fellow dog lover Barbara Broccoli OBE, Producer of the James Bond films. Our winner was Toby, a Cocker Spaniel, who dressed as John McEnroe. This year Walk the Dog is delighted to welcome artist Christiane Kubrick as our judge. Walk the Dog client, Christiane has always been surrounded by dogs and has provided a forever home for many rescue dogs over the years. Christiane currently has four dogs; Tallulah, Marshall, Elvis and Macy. Christiane says; "Dressed to the K9's is a great way for dog owners to have some fun with their pet, while helping raise the badly needed funds for Every Chance Rescue. I'm really looking forward to judging this year's photo entries and encourage dog owners everywhere to join in".
The competition is being organised by Walk the Dog, a pet care business based in Berkhamsted. Hanne Grice owner of Walk the Dog says; “Every Chance Rescue is run entirely by Jan Fennell Dog Listeners like myself, while our annual competition is light-hearted in its approach, the message behind it is serious. At Every Chance, we work diligently to save dogs from mistreatment and unnecessary death. We rehabilitate dogs with a way of training called ‘Amichien Bonding’. This has helped turn many dogs around and
literally given them a second chance.”

No doubt tails will be wagging everywhere in anticipation of being named Top Dog in this year’s ‘Dressed to the K9’s’ competition.

Competition launches; Monday 1st March 2010.
Competition closes; Sunday 25th April 2010.
Winner, runner up and top ten finalists announced; Tuesday 4th May 2010.

**Please note**: be kind to you dog, avoid putting him under any pressure. If your dog is unhappy about being dressed then please do not force him to dress up, as this may cause him unnecessary stress.

Notes to Editors;
· Every Chance Rescue (ECR) was formed in October 2008, to bridge the gap that
traditional rescue organisations cannot fill. Visit http://www.everychancerescue.co.uk/
· Dressed to the K9’s website is http://www.dressedtothek9s.com/ and entrants can post their submissions to ‘Dressed to the K9’s’ at 15 Hillside Gardens, Berkhamsted, Hertfordshire HP4 2LF. Become a fan on our Dressed to the K9’s Facebook page
· Christiane Kubrick is a UK based artist and wife of Stanley Kubrick. Christiane holds the annual Childwickbury Arts and Music fair at her Childwickbury estate. Visit http://www.childwickbury-arts-fair.com/
· Walk the Dog is an award winning pet care business in Berkhamsted, Hertfordshire that offers a range of services from canine behavioural advice and training to dog walking. Visit http://www.walk-the-dog.net/
· Ian Waldron Photography an award winning business based in Eddlesborough, Bedfordshire, covering the UK. Visit http://www.ianwaldronphotography.com/main.php
· Reg & Ruby Pet Accessories is a pet product company. Visit http://www.regandruby.com/
· Vicky Kelly is a life coach based in Essex. Visit http://www.lonelyheartscoach.co.uk/
· Amichien Bonding is a revolutionary approach to dog training, developed by Jan
· Fennell. Visit http://www.janfennellthedoglistener.com/


For further information, please contact;
Louise Brooks – 07546405282 or 01442 878628

Hanne Grice – 07976743031 or 01442 878628
Email: info@walk-the-dog.net

Monday 1 February 2010

***Special offer for WTD clients*** Pet Photo Shoot and Canvas

How cool would it be to have a professional photographic shoot with a top photographer and have that photo of your beloved furry friend mounted onto canvas? Well, now you can have it, thanks to Ian Waldron Photography.

Top rated photographer Ian Waldron is offering an EXCLUSIVE deal to all Walk the Dog clients; a professional pet photo shoot and your chosen photograph printed onto canvas for just £125.



For more information about this fantastic offer, call Ian Waldron Photography on 0845 225 1771. Email: info@ianwaldronphotogaphy.com or visit www.ianwaldronphotography.com/main.php

Moving house - a pet's survival guide

Moving house can be an incredibly exciting yet stressful time for us, and it can affect our pets too. Dogs and cats like status quo and they’re incredibly intuitive; so, a combination of their environment changing and picking up on our frazzled emotions, this can lead to our pets displaying unwanted behaviours after the move. Below are some helpful tips for a safe and stress-free pet!


· Check the property for any potential problems such as holes in the fence, dangerous items being left in the garden and so on.
· Introduce your cat to his new home gradually; restrict him to one or two rooms at first. Place the litter box, bed, scratching post, food and water in the room with it. This gives your cat the chance to get used to the new sounds and smells, and provides him with a ‘safe’ place to use later as a refuge or if he feels uncertain. Place your pet’s favourite bed, blanket, toys or any item that’s familiar to them in that room. This helps him feel more secure in the new surroundings.
· If your cat will be allowed outside, keep him indoors for at least two weeks, so your home is familiar to him. After two weeks, take the cat outside with you, let him explore a bit. After ten minutes bring him back inside. Each day increase the time until he feels safe and knows the area.
· Ensure your pet is properly tagged with your new address and phone number.
· If possible, allow yourself some time before you go back to work. This enables you to help your dog adjust. During this period of change, practice ‘Gesture Leaving’ - where you spend time coming and going from the house, building up in small increments (from a couple of seconds to minutes) to see how your dog will respond. This helps reduce separation anxiety and with practice and repetition your dog should adjust to being home alone in the new environment.
· You should also take your dog straight into the garden of the new property on moving day. Ensure he is on the lead and allow him to explore his new environment. Practice some heel work and general obedience requests to get him focused onto you too – this keeps his pulse rate steady and avoids over excitement. Introduce your dog to his new area very slowly. Explore the area one street at a time, so he can ‘suss out’ who else lives in the neighbourhood. Strange dogs can pose a threat and cause your pet unnecessary stress.

WTD Sponsorships for 2010

WTD is delighted to continue our sponsorship of Girl Racer, Emma Cowell. Emma races in the British Siberian Husky Racing Association (BSHRA), with a three dog team. We've been sponsoring Emma since 2008. WTD is also the official sponsor for 'A Dog's Diary...'' a column that follows the adventures of Suzie the Schnauser, featured in Berkhamsted Living and Tring Living magazine, for the second year running.

Launch of Walk the Dog Puppies

Join our new puppy classes Walk the Dog Puppies starting February, every Tuesday evening. Our 5 week course help dog owners learn how to avoid unwanted behaviours, as well as, give their dogs the basics from sit, stay, heeling, recall and much more. Classes are held at the Buglass Room, Village Hall, Leverstock Green, Herts HP3 8QG. From: 6.30pm to 7.30pm. Parking is free.

Dressed to the K9's to launch 1st March 2010

Our second annual dog fancy dress photo competition "Dressed to the K9's" in aid of Every Chance Rescue launches Monday 1st March and runs until Sunday 25th April. This is a online pet photo competition and we have some fabulous prizes up for grabs!
1st Prize: A Pet Photographic Portrait by Ian Waldron Photography, plus a luxury hamper full of pet and owner goodies courtesy of Reg & Ruby Pet Accessories and Walk the Dog with it's Forever Living range.Runner up Prize: A luxury hamper full of pet and owner goodies courtesy of Reg & Ruby Pet Accessories and Walk the Dog with it's Forever Living.


This year’s judge is eminent artist and dog lover Christiane Kubrick. To enter simply:
1. Dress up your dog (let your imagination run wild)
2. Take his photo and submit it via our competition website http://www.dressedtothek9s.com/ or post your entry to ‘Dressed to the K9’s’, 15 Hillside Gardens, Berkhamsted, Herts HP4 2LF. Note: we are unable to return your photographs.
3. The proceeds from this event go to Every Chance Rescue (ECR). We’d be very grateful you’re able to make a donation to ECR via our competition website when submitting your entry -, no matter how big or small, every little helps.
4. The competition closes 25th April. The winner and runner up will be announced on Tuesday 4th May.
We look forward to receiving your imaginative entries. Good luck!


Become a Fan by joining our Facebook page ‘Dressed to the K9’s’.


Cats - a brief history

The cats we know today have a long history dating back millions of years. Paleontologists have discovered evidence of a cat with a retractable claw, Miacis, who lived about 50 million years ago. Most scientists believe that the descendants of Miacis and other prehistoric cats divided into three separate groups nearly a million years ago; the big cats (lions and tigers), the cheetahs, and the small cats (ocelots, bobcats and lynxes).


Cats come in many shapes and sizes, but the fur coat found on each feline is a big part of how they are classified; long-haired, short-haired, or "hairless". Long-haired breeds include; Persian, Maine coon, Norwegian Forest Cat and Rag doll. Short-haired breeds include; American Shorthair, Siamese, Burmese and Singapore. While "hairless" cats, such as the Sphinx, merely appear to be hairless, they have a thin layer of hair covering its body.

Cats first started living with people approximately 6,000 years ago. Ancient Egyptian and Mesopotamian farmers domesticated the African wildcats, Felis hybica, a natural hunter, to keep grain storage areas rodent free. Egyptians worshipped Bastet, the cat goddess of fertility, happiness and the moon. Impressed with the cat's natural beauty, Egyptian artists painted and sculpted them, making them cultural icons. Although ancient Egyptians are known for their love of cats, they are not the only people who worshipped them. In Thailand, Siamese cats were sacred temple cats. In Japan, these animals kept Buddhist temples free of mice. In Norwegian mythology, Freya (the goddess of fertility) rode in a chariot pulled by two white cats. Throughout history, sailors and other explorers helped spread cats across the world. Keeping cats abroad their ships was also a good way to rid their living quarters of mice. In time, it was considered lucky to keep cats on board. When cats came to Europe in 900 BC, they crossbred with a native cat found in the British Isles, Felis silvestris. Yet by the middle Ages, cats fell out of favour with most of Europe. The Catholic Church connected cats and those who lived with them with paganism, devil worship, and witchcraft. Superstitious people believed that cats (especially black cats) had diabolical powers.

Today, cats are the UK’s favourite pet with an estimated population of 9.2million. Walk the Dog is proud to support the Cats Protection League Hemel which helps rehome and foster cats. Show your support for Britain’s best loved pet by logging onto http://dacorum.cats.org.uk/

Focus on puppies
How cool would it be if you could learn to successfully communicate with your dog so you can understand one another? Well now you can! Walk the Dog Puppies launches in February; these are puppy classes and young dog progress classes designed to help owners learn how to teach their dog the basics from recall, sit, stay, heeling, ‘leave’, as well as, learning how to avoid unwanted behaviours and deal with common problems in a calm, consistent and convincing way. So, we’ve got some top tips below to set you and your puppy on the road to successful dog training.

· Lower your expectations. Remember, your puppy is just a baby; he doesn’t know he should toilet outside, or know even his name. A human baby takes many months to learn to walk, talk, and toilet training can take years. It's the same principle when you're training your puppy – patience, understanding and consistency is the key to successful training.
· Adolescence. Around 4 months of age, the puppy moves into adolescence. They get bored easily and have no self-control, they like action and speed. Set some boundaries (e.g.) is the puppy allowed on the sofa by invitation only? Is the dog allowed upstairs?
· Avoid long training sessions. The puppy’s ability to concentrate over long periods is poor, and you need to help teach him self-control. Keep training short, fun and easy. Teach in steps, like the ‘sit-stay’ - build from one second to three seconds, five seconds and so on.
· Have fun with your puppy. Play with your dog! This teaches him to focus on you and builds the association that you’re fun to be with! Playing helps build a bond with your dog too. Focus more energy into playing than walking the puppy. Playing gives the dog mental exercise, as well as, physical exercise.
· Allow the puppy breaks and rest if he looses his concentration while training.
· Slowly introduce new experiences, environments, noises, machinery, clothing, animals and people to the puppy. Take it slowly! You mustn’t put pressure on your puppy or yourself. Your behaviour dictates the behaviour of your dog. If the puppy is scared by something move away in a calm manner, do not make a fuss of the dog (this will only re-enforce the dog’s scared behaviour). Show you are not bothered and there is no need for concern.
· Never hit, shout or punish the puppy. Aggression only begets aggression.
· Toilet training. Look for the key times the puppy will go, typically upon waking, playing and eating. Pups will sniff and circle. Encourage the puppy outside into the garden. As the puppy eliminates say a word like “be clean”, this builds the association of that word to that action, so in time you’ll be able to say the word and the dog will eliminate. Once the pup has finished, praise with food reward immediately and say “good dog”, this positively re-enforces this ‘wanted’ behaviour. Don’t go inside the house straight after the pup has been to the toilet, as the puppy may learn to hold on for longer, as they want more time to explore the outside. If the pup goes to the toilet inside the house and you haven’t caught him in the act, simply clean it up with no fuss (say nothing and no eye contact). If you catch the puppy about to go or mid-flow – pick him up gently and take outside (repeat as above).
· Start grooming early. Teach your puppy that grooming is a pleasant experience. Brush him when he’s sleepy, gently touch ears/teeth/paws to enable him to get used to being investigated in these areas. This will help when he goes to the vets, or when you need to clip his claws or brush his teeth.
· Learn to communicate with your dog. Learn the dog’s language and you’ll understand each other and have the relationship you deserve. Speak to Hanne about how you can achieve this.

For more information about our 5 week puppy courses call us on 01442 878628 or email us at: info@walk-the-dog.net

Sunday 17 January 2010


WTD wins Business Excellence Award
Walk the Dog has been awarded the title 'Most Promising New Business' at this year's Dacorum Business Excellence Awards 2009. The judges said of Walk the Dog;"We were very very impressed...this company demonstrated thorough market research, a clear business strategy, has achieved its objectives, and puts its customers [pets] at the heart of its business...this entry stood out from the rest". The gala night was held on Friday 23rd October at Shendish Manor. For more on this story, you can access our press release by clicking here.

Wednesday 6 January 2010

Cold weather safety tips for your pets


With the recent snow flurries and cold weather we've been experiencing, not only is it important that you wrap up warm and take precautions when travelling around in such weather, but it's also important to take safety measures to ensure your pets stay safe. Below are some top safety tips for pets during the cold weather.


Coats - just because your dog has a fur coat, doesn't mean he won't feel the cold. Small dogs or dogs with little to no hair should have sweaters or jackets for protection against the cold. If your dog doesn't like wearing clothing, then better to keep them out of the cold and ensure food and water is provided inside the home to prevent from freezing.


Cold - pets shouldn't be left outside or walked for long periods of time. Even half an hour in frigid temperatures can cause problems. Never leave your pet outside for more than ten minutes when temperatures dip below freezing. Your pet's ears, feet and tail are highly susceptible to frostbite, so limit his time outdoors.


Ice and feet - when walking your dog near ice or frozen puddles/ponds/canals/lakes, keep your dog close to you and on the lead. This ensures your dog cannot run across the ice, avoids his feet getting accidentally cut on the ice and helps prevent falls on the ice which may lead to injury for you and your dog. Always wash your dog's paw's after a winter walk to remove any salt.


Shaking - if your pet is out in the cold and begins shaking or shivering, get him back to warm shelter as soon as possible. Signs of hypothermia include; shaking/violent shivering, slow and shallow respiration, a slower heart rate, gums may appear pale or blue. The pet may also appear listless. Call your vet immediately.


Eating snow/ground matter - avoid letting your pet eat snow or anything else on the ground. Dangerous objects or chemicals may be hidden in the snow or ice. Eating snow can also cause stomach upsets and even hypothermia. Keep water at room temperature. Pet's, especially dogs, become easily dehydrated in winter, so make sure he has easy access to fresh water.


Antifreeze - this is highly toxic! Antifreeze can get into puddles on the pavement and roads and taste sweet to pets, but even the smallest amount is deadly to your pet. Supervise your pet while outside (even in the garden) and if you suspect your dog has had any exposure to antifreeze, call your vet immediately.


Fire - if you use an indoor or outdoor fireplace, ensure you keep a safety guard around it in order to protect your pet from the flames and soot. Never leave a fire unattended.


Shelter/bedding - always ensure your pet has adequate shelter where it will be warm and dry. His bed shouldn't be in a drafty area and bedding should be kept dry. Provide extra blankets when temperatures dip below freezing.


Grooming - snow can get easily caught up in the fur of your pet. So, regular grooming will help avoid matter being caught in their coat and a well groomed coat means a better insulating coat for your dog or cat.


In the car - never leave your pet alone in a vehicle. If the engine is off, he may die from hypothermia. If the engine is left running, he may be overcome with carbon monoxide fumes. Better to leave your dog at home in the warm.

Follow the tips to keep your pet healthy and safe this winter.

Monday 4 January 2010

Dog aggression


In my role as Dog Listener, I am often called in as the last resort to help clients experiencing a range of problems with their dogs from separation anxiety to excessive barking. While owners may tolerate some unwanted behaviours like pulling on the lead, one problem they can’t live with is aggression. It’s confusing for owners to have their loving dog suddenly turn into a Jekyll and Hyde character when out on a walk. As a result, walking the dog is no longer a pleasurable experience for the owner or the dog. So, why does this happen?

Aggression is a defence reflex, initially exhibited as a threat or warning, ultimately exhibited in a real form when there is no other option left. In other words, it can usually be avoided if you understand the cause, can read the signs and know how to desensitise the dog’s lack of trust towards the situation that resulted in the aggressive confrontation. Nearly all aggression results from a lack of trust on the part of the dog. So, it’s vital you get your dog to trust in you by giving him the right information whenever a question is raised “what happens now?” By getting your dog to elect you as leader, he will trust in you and follow your lead. There are four key areas where dogs look for leadership from us. These are; the hunt (or going for a walk), food/eating, status and perceived danger. Canine confrontation takes place within these four key areas (e.g.) dogs will fight over chew or may growl when another dog tries to cross its path. If we fail in our ‘leadership’ credentials then the dog’s survival instincts kick in, telling them someone has to take charge of the pack, and this is when the unwanted behaviours kick in.

The 4 F’s – flight, freeze, flirt or fight
Dogs exhibit four defence reflexes; flight, freeze, flirt and fight. This means when a dog feels threatened or challenged they will run away (flight), enter an almost catatonic state of immobility or snarl and growl (freeze), or try to initate some play and act like a puppy to avoid a fight (flirt) or they may finally bite (fight). The fight reflex is the most common reason for the popular diagnosis ‘aggressive dog’. Dogs that are prone to ‘fight’ as the first means of defence, will growl, snarl and eventually bite if we don’t read the signals. Dogs aren’t confrontational creatures; they won’t initiate aggression unless provoked. If a dog feels threatened – particularly if someone bends over it, directly approaches it, makes eye contact or tries to stroke their head and neck, then depending on that dog’s personality it will tell the human to ‘back off’ in the only way they can communicate. Below is a list from 1 to 7 of the warning signals dogs will give off, which if unheeded could lead to an attack.

1. Yawning, blinking, nose licking
2. Turning head away, then turning body away/sitting/pawing
3. Walking away or creeping backwards
4. Standing crouched, tail tucked under
5. Stiffening up and staring
6. Growling/snarling, tail high
7. Lunging then bite

If you would like to know more about how you can understand your dog and get the relationship you deserve, then call Hanne Grice, dog behaviour specialist and dog listener on 01442 878628 or email us at info@walk-the-dog.net

Understanding your cat



Ever wondered why your cat eats grass or wags its tail? Here’s a brief run down on common cat behaviours, to help you understand your feline friend.

  • A purring cat is not necessarily a happy cat. Cats purr when in pain, distressed or giving birth. Cats in pain will purr when approached by people; this suggests cats purr to show they’re friendly and approachable - ready to be comforted or helped. Kittens purr to communicate to its mother that it’s well and content.


  • Kneading is when a cat extends and retracts its claws – this usually happens when resting on its owner's lap. This behaviour comes from kittenhood. Kittens knead their mother while suckling to make the milk flow more freely. Adult cats do this when they feel safe and contented. If a cat dribbles or sucks at the owners’ clothes whilst kneading or purring, this is an indication that the cat may have been taken from its mother too early.


  • Eating grass often occurs when your cat needs to clean out its stomach by vomiting (e.g. get rid of fur balls). If your cat doesn’t have access to grass, house plants or anything similar will be eaten! It’s been said that cats eat grass to obtain Folic Acid, something that cats need in small quantities for its well-being.


  • Taking food out of the bowl and eating it off the floor is very common. Two theories as to why your cat behaves this way are that cats find the pieces of food too large, put them outside of the bowl so it’s easier to chew into smaller pieces. Or if the cats’ whiskers touch the side of the bowl, he may find this uncomfortable to eat, so he’ll scoop the food out.


  • A wagging tail could mean your cat is angry or he’s feeling indecisive – the cat wants to do two things at once and cannot make up its mind which action to take.


  • Cats bury their faeces so as not to demonstrate its presence to more dominant cats; a dominant cat will leave its faeces uncovered. A cat kept on their own will bury its faeces in the litter tray, suggesting the cat feels its owner is dominant. But in households with more than one cat, you’ll often find one or two cats leave their faeces uncovered, while the rest will cover it up.


  • Cats greet one another by rubbing their faces, so when yours stands on its back legs, he’s simply trying to reach your face! This greeting is only done to humans the cat trusts. Cats have scent glands on their temples, around the mouth and base of the tail. If a cat rubs itself against you, it’s rubbing off its scent, saying "this is mine".

Dogs and babies

Whether you’ve got a new addition to the family or have friends visiting with young children, there are ways in which you can ensure your dog bonds with a new baby. ‘Baby proofing’ your dog, is all about making your dog feel comfortable and safe. If you are expecting, then watching how your dog reacts around other children will help to give you an indication of what you can expect when your little one arrives.

A dog’s primary sense is smell – your dog is able to detect the smell of human perspiration at a concentration up to a million times lower than humans can detect! Once we understand how powerful this sense of smell is, it’s no wonder our dog shoves its nose into our shopping bags to investigate what’s in it! A baby’s going to smell fascinating to your dog – so if you’re expecting, it’s important to introduce your dog now to baby smells; allow him to explore the sweet-smelling baby products you’ll be using. When the baby is born, have a friend or family member bring home a blanket and ask them to praise your dog when he sniffs it, give him a delicious treat and allow him to smell it again. This should be repeated a number of times before the baby comes home.

Hearing is the dog’s second sense and while the cry of a newborn can make any mother nervous, it can also affect your dog. Some behaviourists suggest using a sound effects CD that includes the sounds of children and babies crying. When the CD is played at a low level, you should play with your dog and treat him to ensure he has a positive association with the noise. Also, by simply acting ‘matter of factly’ in front of the dog when your baby cries and remaining calm, will show your dog there is nothing to fear, you’re in charge and his involvement isn’t needed.

Sight is your dog’s third sense, so it’s important that your dog gets used to what a baby looks and feels like. It’s a good idea to buy a life-size baby doll and allow your dog to touch the doll’s feet with his nose; you then praise him and treat. Wrap the doll in a blanket and walk around with it in your arms, sit with the doll in one arm – as if you were feeding it and stroke your dog with the other hand. Your dog will begin to associate the close presence of your baby with good things happening to him. Use food treats to reward your dog for calm behaviour.

From the time you bring your baby home until your child is at least six to eight years of age, he or she should never be left unsupervised with any dog, no matter how well-mannered and well-trained that dog might be. Think ‘prevention is better than cure’.

More information on dogs and babies can be found on our blog petdiary.walk-the-dog.net with a great article written by Jan Fennell, The Dog Listener on ‘How to ensure your dog and baby bonds’.

Understanding your dog - canine body language and interpreting it


There are probably times when you wish you knew what your dog was thinking. By looking at your dog’s body language, watching their expressions and actions this can help you understand what they might be feeling. On average dogs have 30 calming signals. These signals are used in times of fear, to avoid confrontation and on a day to day basis. As humans we often fail to see our dogs using these signals, so much so, that some dogs may give up using them altogether. For others, they become so desperate and frustrated they can get aggressive, nervous or stressed out as a result. Below are some basic calming signals dogs use to communicate their feelings.

Yawning
Your dog may yawn when someone bends over him, when you sound angry or there’s yelling, when he’s at the vets, and when someone’s walking or staring directly towards him. This tells you he feels uncomfortable and is trying to calm the situation down. When your dog is excited and there’s anticipation such as going out for a walk, dogs will yawn to take in more oxygen, as instinctively adrenalin has kicked in to prepare them for the ‘hunt’. Threatening signals (making direct eye contact, fast movements, bending over the dog etc) will often cause your dog to use a calming signal.

Licking
Licking is another calming signal - when meeting new people, dogs or in stressful situations. Licking is especially used by black/dark coloured dogs and dogs with a lot of fur around their faces as their facial expressions are harder to read. To show a dog you’re not a threat, avoid making direct eye contact, yawn and lick your lips – this is a pacifying signal and helps the dog to feel less anxious.

Turning away
A dog will turn his head slightly to one side or turn completely around so his back and tail is facing whoever the dog is calming. If a person seems angry, aggressive or threatening, dogs will often turn away. When you bend over a dog to stroke him or he’s taken by surprise - lookout for his head turning away. Dogs will use this signal to other dogs to prevent possible conflicts. Dogs that perceive themselves to be head of their pack will also use this body or head turn as a way of showing you where they want you to pat them. It’s a case of ‘who do you think you are?’ when you try to stroke them over the head. To show a strange or a nervous dog you’re not a threat, crouch down, don’t ‘invade their body space’, avoid direct eye contact, let the dog sniff you, then slowly hold your hand out for them to smell you. Once the dog is calm, then stroke him gently under the chin.

Play bow
A dog bending down on his front legs is an invitation to play if he’s moving his legs from side to side in a playful manner. But if the dog’s standing still while bowing, this is a signal to calm someone or another dog down. However, the invitation to play is often a calming signal by itself because the dog is making a potentially dangerous situation less tense and diverts with something safe.

Sniffing the ground
You’ll often see this when out walking with your dog and someone’s coming towards you, in noisy situations or places where there’s a lot going on or when your dog sees objects that he’s not sure of and finds it intimidating. Sniffing the ground may be anything from moving the nose swiftly down toward the ground and back up again to sticking their nose to the ground and sniffing persistently for several minutes. Of course, dogs sniff a lot anyway to find out whom or what has passed along the street before them! But depending on the situation this is used as a calming signal.

Sitting down/lifting one paw
Some dogs will sit down and lift a paw towards another dog or human to calm a situation down. Dogs will also sit or lay down as another dog approaches as a way to calm that approaching dog, if they feel it’s coming towards them too quickly. Dogs may also sit with their backs turned against the owner when they sound too strict, angry or the owner’s speaking in a loud voice!

Walking in a curve
This signal is the main reason why dogs react so strongly to meeting other dogs when they’re forced to walk straight at them. Instincts tell our dog that it’s wrong to approach someone like that – as humans we think differently. The dog can get anxious or defensive and this results in the dog barking and/or lunging at other dogs. When we’re outside with our dogs, we’re at our most human. So, if our dog barks or acts in an aggressive manner towards another dog, we then get flustered and anxious and may even shout at our dog. This creates a chaotic and stressful situation and now the dog has a negative association with other dogs. When given a chance, dogs will walk in curves around each other. Watch how your dog meets another dog when off the lead. Some dogs need large curves; others only need to walk slightly curved. Don’t walk your dog directly toward a dog, instead stop and change direction. If this isn’t possible give him some more leash to enable him to manoeuvre away from the dog and walk the other side of you. The more anxious your dog is, the wider the space you create between you and the other dog. Remember to take a deep breath, stay calm – keep your pulse rate steady and show your dog you’re not concerned and he will soon follow your lead.

Dog problems - Boredom Busters


Have you ever come home to find your dog has chewed through your favourite shoes or dug a tunnel in the garden that resembles something from the Great Escape? There are many causes for destructiveness from anxiousness and stress to teething. But boredom can also be a cause. So, here are some fun and clever ways to help stimulate your dog while you’re away.

The Bubble Machine
Bubble machine produces a stream of bubbles which can last for hours. Battery operated; bubbles come in bacon, liver, chicken and even peanut butter flavour! Typical cost £20.

The Time Kong Dispenser
This machine dispenses Kongs filled with treats at regular intervals during the day. It holds up to four Kongs at a time, keeping your dog occupied for hours. Prices start from approx £60.
Wiggly Giggly Mini Balls
These balls make noises as your dog rolls them or carries them around. This interactive toy encourages the dog to play by themselves. Typical cost £4.

Your imagination…
…you don’t just have to buy expensive toys to entertain your pooch! Why not fill an old box with tasty titbits and rags, your dog then has to hunt out the treats. Alternatively, scattering kibble across the garden enables your dog to use his natural scenting instinct to sniff out his dinner.

De-stress your dog
Dogs are pack animals, so when left alone some dogs become anxious. To help de-stress your dog leave an item of clothing you’ve worn overnight in your dog’s bed; your scent will give him comfort. Leaving a radio or television on can also be soothing. Be aware of not making a fuss of your dog when you’re coming and going. This is a key area where we can over-excite our dogs and do more harm than good! So, when arriving home wait until your dog is calm and settled, then call him over for a cuddle! When leaving, gather your belongings and pop a treat down for the dog, don’t say anything or make eye contact just leave quietly, enabling the dog to be as relaxed as possible at your departure.

All these dog products, together with a range of other brain-busting toys are available from the internet. For more game ideas or if you’re experiencing problems such as destructive chewing, then call Hanne Grice on 01442 878628 or email us at info@walk-the-dog.net For more information about our canine behaviour and dog training services, visit http://www.doglistener.tv/

Puppies – the secret to having a happy and well behaved puppy



Wild dogs raise their offspring into perfect wild dogs. So, when humans raise puppies into dogs, they run into trouble. Why?

Well, we don’t allow our puppy to get the natural upbringing they’d receive being brought up by other dogs, and we expect the dog to respect our human rules. These are meaningless to the dog, and we fail to take into consideration the dog’s age, developmental stages and its capacity. So, as a result our dog fails to meet our too high demands. This month we’ve listed below some key rules to help you and your pup on the road to success.

  • Lower your expectations. In the wild dogs are allowed to grow up naturally in a pack, they learn self-control gradually.

  • Adolescence. Around 4 months of age, the puppy moves into adolescence. They get bored easily and have no self-control, they like action and speed. This is where patience and consistency with your puppy is key. Set some boundaries (e.g.) is the puppy allowed on the sofa by invitation only? Is the dog allowed upstairs?

  • Avoid long training sessions. The puppy’s ability to concentrate over long periods is poor, and you need to help teach him self-control. Keep training short, fun and easy. Teach in steps, like the ‘sit-stay’ - build from one second to three seconds, five seconds and so on.

  • Have fun with your puppy. Play with your dog! This teaches him to focus on you and builds the association that you’re fun to be with! Playing helps build a bond with your dog too. Focus more energy into playing than walking the puppy. Playing gives the dog mental exercise, as well as, physical exercise.

  • Allow the puppy breaks and rest if he looses his concentration while training.

  • Slowly introduce new experiences, environments, noises, machinery, clothing, animals and people to the puppy. Take it slowly! You must not put pressure on your puppy or yourself. Stay calm. Your behaviour dictates the behaviour of your dog. If the puppy is scared by something move away in a calm manner, do not make a fuss of the dog (this will only re-enforce the dog’s scared behaviour). Show you are not bothered and there is no need for concern.

  • Never hit, shout or punish the puppy. Aggression only begets aggression.

  • Toilet training. This is where ‘consistency’ is your friend! Look for the key times the puppy will go, typically upon walking, playing and eating. Pups will sniff and circle. Encourage the puppy outside into the garden. As the puppy goes to the toilet say a word like “be clean”, this build the association of that word to that action. In time you will be able to say the word and the dog will eliminate. Once the pup has finished, walk up to the puppy and treat with food reward immediately and give lots of praise. This increases the repetition of the ‘good’ behaviour. Don’t go inside the house straight after the pup has been to the toilet – if you do, the puppy may learn to hold on for longer, as they want more time to explore the outside. If the pup goes to the toilet inside the house and you haven’t caught him in the act, simply clean it up with no fuss (say nothing and no eye contact). If you catch the puppy about to go or mid-flow – pick it up gently and take outside (repeat as above).

  • Start grooming early. Teach your puppy that grooming is a pleasant experience. Brush the puppy when he’s sleepy, gently touch his ears/teeth/paws to enable him to get used to being investigated in these areas. This will help when he has to go to the vets, or when you need to clip his claws or brush his teeth!

  • Learn to communicate with your dog. Speak to Hanne Grice about puppy training and the Amichien Bonding method – we’re here to help you. Learn the dog’s language and you’ll understand each other and have the relationship you deserve!


For more information call us on 01442 878628 or email us at info@walk-the-dog.net You can find out more about Walk the Dog Puppies, our puppy classes by visiting our website; http://www.walk-the-dog.net/

Games Corner - 'Hide and Seek’

To play this game you need...

  • Your dog!
  • Someone to hide (have dog treats on them or a dog toy

Instructions...

Firstly, one person holds your dog, as the other goes and hides. They take with them your dog’s favourite toy or ‘titbit’. You can make this easy at first by letting the dog see where the ‘hider’ goes. Tell the dog to go and ‘Find X’, to help the dog encourage him to follow you, until the dog gets the idea. Once the dog finds the hider, they should make a big fuss of the dog and give it the titbit or toy. The game gets harder as the dog gets better, by hiding in different rooms where the dog didn’t see the person go. Eventually the treats can be dropped and the dog can just be rewarded with lots of praise.

Who's walking who? Teaching your dog to walk to heel

Walking a dog that pulls on the lead can be a stressful for any owner and may be even be dangerous. Taking a dog for a walk is supposed to be a pleasurable experience, however we often see many owners literally ‘skiing’ down the pavement with their dogs, or repeatedly saying “heel” to their dog, while getting increasingly frustrated, jerking the dog back on its lead. Having a dog that pulls and an unhappy owner is far from the relaxing ideal of ‘going for a walk’. But, have you ever considered what causes this behaviour in the first place?

Dogs not only want to explore their environment with as much freedom as possible using their incredible senses of smell, hearing and sight, but a dog that pulls on the lead is a good indicator of a dog who’s confused about its position within the hierarchy of its pack. In the wild, the alpha pair lead the hunt and the rest of the pack follow. There is no debate, the rest of the pack follow out of respect for the leaders as the decision makers. If you’ve got a dog that perceives himself to be the decision maker in your domestic pack, it makes total sense that come the times when the pack go out ‘on the hunt’, where shall leader be? In front!

A dog that’s being yanked on the lead or even shouted at receives mixed messages from us. To be the good leader for our dogs we must always ask ourselves ‘Am I happy and am I in control?’ Being a good leader stems from the three C’s: being calm, consistent and convincing. If your dog gets over excited at the mere sight of the lead or you have to struggle to even get the lead on the dog, you haven’t just got a problem walking outside, you have a problem before you even think about going for a walk! To understand dog behaviour we observe wild dogs as this is where we see true dog behaviour in their natural environment.

In the wild, dogs do not walk in unison or ‘to heel’, and they certainly have no concept of the lead – where in the wild do you ever see a dog taking another dog for a walk? In fact, wild dogs such as wolves, jackals, kayotee, dingoes, dholes, painted dogs, hyenas and foxes, never ‘go for a walk’. The closest a wild dog gets to going for a walk is with the hunt. However, they don’t go out through choice, they have to leave the den in order to find the food they need for survival. In the wild, dogs may only hunt once every three days.

So, we have to teach our dog where we want him to be – by our side, and that has to be done without shouting, violence or force. So, let’s look at the most effective way to teach your to walk to heel.

To teach your dog good manners, you must begin at home, where there are no distractions.

  1. With your tasty treat in your hand (sausage/cheese/meat strip), turn your back away from your dog, put your hand containing the treat to your side to show your dog where you want him to be, call his name and ask him to ‘heel’.
  2. If your dog appears at your side praise him and give him the food reward. If he doesn’t, leave it an hour or so then try again.
  3. Build this process up by walking a few steps, while treating and praising as he gets it right. Intermittently you may say ‘heel’ – but remember you’re showing your dog where you want him to be with your body and movement, this action speaks louder than words!
  4. Walking to heel doesn’t come naturally to the dog, so you have to build up your and your dog’s confidence and trust in you, so you must stay calm. If your stress levels rise your dog will pick up on this, so stop your heel work practice. This is like the good diet, you should practice this ‘little and often’ and only for 5 to 10 minutes, so you and your dog have fun and stay focused.
  5. With practice you’ll be able to move freely around your home and garden with your dog following you in all different directions – forwards, backwards, in figures of eight and so on! You should practice this off the lead first, and then once you and the dog have the hang of it, introduce the lead.
  6. Get the dog used to seeing the lead being moved about, this breaks any associations that the lead equals ‘going for a walk’ and helps calm the dog down. If he gets over excited once you’ve popped on the lead, take it off, go and sit down and wait until he’s settled.
  7. Practice moving to the door regularly, if he pulls just stop and wait for the lead to go slack, as this happens say "good dog" and take a step towards the door. You may only get one step before he pulls again, but you must be consistent and keep a steady pulse rate. If he pulls again, you can take off the lead and abandon the walk altogether or stand still until the lead goes slack once more.
  8. Once you’ve got out of the door you need to keep practicing with the principle of ‘slack lead’ equals ‘move forward’; ‘tight lead’ equals ‘stop’. Consistency is the key to success here. The reward is the moving forward, praise and treat, so if you keep going when the dog is pulling, you’re actually rewarding the dog for pulling!! Use treats to get the dog focused back on you. If the dog pulls you stop, wait for the dog to look up, change direction and reward the dog for being in the right position.

This exercise does take time and a lot of patience but it really works!

Games Corner; Teach your dog to shut the door!

For this, you will need...

  • Your dog!
  • A door that swings easily on its hinges
  • Treats

Instructions...

Open the door a few inches, place a small piece of treat on the hook and call your dog’s attention to it, saying “Shut the door.” In reaching for the treat the dog will place his forefeet on the door, this will close it. If preferable, the treat can be balanced on the door handle, and shutting the door will jar it to the floor, then he should be allowed to eat it and be petted and praised. After he’s done this a few times, advance him in his lessons by placing the treat in position while he’s in another room, then call him in and say “Shut the door,” directing him toward it. If he doesn’t go, show him the treat and encourage him to get it.

In time he’ll understand the order and close any door that’s shown to him. Finally, teach him to close the door without having any reward in sight, but after he shuts it in response to your command reward him with a treat. At first you need not be particular about having the door closed tight, but in later stages, insist upon its being done before any reward is given.

A dog's sense of sight

Following our series on our pet’s senses, we have a ‘look’ at the sense of sight.
Most pet owners know their dog’s vision differs from a human’s, and for many years we believed dogs were colour blind and had very poor vision. However, this isn’t true.
For humans, our visual system uses a greater proportion of our brain more than any other creature.

This means we interpret the environment based on what we see, more than any other sense. Dogs’ vision is not as dominant as our own; their interpretation of the environment is less strongly on what they see, but rather what they smell and hear. Dogs’ eyes are placed more to the side of their heads, giving them a more panoramic view of the world, and a greater sensitivity to peripheral movement compared to humans. However, their close up vision is poor; they have a panoramic field of vision of 250-270 degrees, and their binocular vision varies from breed to breed. The more a dog sees laterally, the less well it sees straight ahead. Lack of binocular vision means the individual will experience distortions in depth perception and visual measurement of distance. Pekinese dogs, for example, have a binocular vision around 85 degrees, Greyhounds around 75 degrees, and humans have approximately 140 degrees. So, a human may clearly see an object but to the dog this might appear blurred from the same distance. At a rough estimate, dogs have about 20/75 vision. This means they can see at 20 feet what a normal human could see clearly at 75 feet. A dog will track its prey with its sense of smell, but when it comes close enough to see the prey, his sense of sight confirms his trail. However, the prey may run away as the dog approaches, and once it’s in motion it’s far easier for the dog to track, as its eyes become more ‘useful information gathering devices’. Because of this, many prey animals have evolved the instincts to take advantage of the dog’s visual limitations; the potential ‘kill’ will freeze as an effective way to elude detection by the dog, this is because when something is motionless it becomes virtually invisible to a dog. Dogs are primarily diurnal, meaning they are more active around dusk and dawn. In order to see more efficiently in low light, unlike humans, dogs have a layer of tissue located behind the retina called the tapetum lucidum. This acts like a sort of mirror, where light bounces of it increasing the sensitivity of the eye in dim light. We can often see the visible effect of the tapetum at the flash of a camera when taking our dog’s picture, as the dog’s eyes appear to shine.

Dogs’ can see colour but it is secondary to their needs, as twilight and night-time activity requires sensitivity to low levels of brightness. Both human and dog eyes are lined with rods and cones; these give us our ability to see small details and are responsible for the perception of colour. Dogs have significantly more rods than cones in their eyes. Each cone contains a ‘photopigment’ that is sensitive to a separate wavelength of light, and these photopigments are what makes colour perception possible. Studies have proven that dogs have colour vision, and they see in rudimentary colour such as yellows, greens and blues.

Rabbits & Rodents - top tips for a healthy and happy pet

Rabbits and rodents are great family pets and can be easy to care for but, they are completely dependent on their owner to keep them safe, clean, healthy and happy. We’ve got some handy hints to help you give the best possible care for your pet.

For Rabbits

  • Food – it’s important to include a variety of foods in your rabbit’s diet to keep him happy and healthy. There are many foods you can give your bunny for variety, including; corncobs without the kernels, dandelion flowers and greens (no pesticides), sunflowers, carrots and carrot tops.
  • Teeth - rabbit’s, along with all rodents teeth, grow throughout their lives so ensure you give you pet lots to gnaw on to keep teeth filed. Buy mineral or gnawing blocks or fruit wood such as apple wood is just as good. Hay is extremely important in keeping teeth down; make sure you give your rabbit enough hay to graze on for the whole day. If your rabbit develops ‘cloudy’ eyes this can suggest a problem with its teeth.
  • Rear end - check daily for any dirtiness on the fur. It is especially important to check twice daily for any soiling in the summer, as this can attract flies to your pet’s bottom, where they can lay their eggs, hatching into maggots within a matter of hours. This is called ‘fly-strike’ and is usually fatal if not treated immediately. Make sure you thoroughly clean the area but if the rear end of your rabbit becomes soiled frequently speak to your vet. Dirt can suggest a diet is too rich.
  • Claws - if your rabbit is kept on soft ground it’ll be more difficult for it to wear its claws down. Regularly check your bunny’s paws, and if they are too long they will need regular clipping.

    For Gerbils
  • Food - gerbils love sunflower seeds and peanuts but these are very high in fat so limit the amount they get per feed!
  • Behaviour – in the wild gerbils would live in complex tunnels and burrows. It’s very important to allow your gerbil the opportunity to burrow in its enclosure. Create a deep layer using shavings and hay. Gerbils rarely vocalise, the only time they do is at times of stress, play or excitement.

    For Guinea Pigs
  • Food - guinea pigs lack the enzyme that makes Vitamin C, which may result in a Vitamin C deficiency, causing weight loss, general weakness and swollen joints. Fresh vegetables given daily can help prevent this and put a small dose of sugar free Ribena into your pet’s water!
  • Behaviour - guinea pigs are prey animals so being picked up from above can mimic the movements of predators in the wild. To handle a guinea pig appropriately, lower yourself and scoop your pet up from its behind with one hand securing it at the front. Creating lots of tunnels in the enclosure will give your pet lots of places to hide in, helping him to feel secure.

Dealing with pet emergencies

How would you help your dog if he had heatstroke? Would you know how to help your cat if it was sting by a wasp? Emergencies like these happen all the time, but knowing what to do before you get your pet to the veterinary surgery may help save your pets life. Below are some top tips on dealing with emergencies, to help you and your pet.

Before treatment, you must make an assessment based on your pet’s appearance;

  • Ensure the tongue hasn’t slipped backwards into the throat. Pull forward if necessary
  • Check the colour of the gums. If something’s restricting the animal’s airway, the gums will turn blue. If there is no circulation (cardiac arrest) the gums will be pale
  • Check if your pet is conscious. Touch its eye, if he blinks he is conscious.
  • Check the pulse. The heart is located behind the elbow. On a small dog you can place your entire hand around the chest to feel it. On medium or large dogs, place a hand on each side of the chest and feel the heartbeat. A pulse can also be found inside the back leg. Place your hand on the inside of the leg to feel the pulse. If the heart is weak, there may be a faint heart beat but no pulse.
  • Stopped breathing: Don’t be squeamish! Pull the tongue forward. Ensure there is nothing stuck in the mouth or throat. Hold the mouth firmly shut and blow down the dog’s nose, until you see the chest wall rise. Give 7-10 good breaths, and then check for breathing again. If still no breathing, repeat the process, and carry on doing this until you either get the dog to the vets or the vet arrives to take over.
  • Cardiac Massage: Firstly, ask for someone to call the emergency vet, while help is being sort, you can perform the massage. On a small dog or cat, squeeze the chest one-handed. On a medium dog, press down with two hands placed one over the other – do not be afraid of pressing too hard particularly when performing this on a large dog. You should squeeze approximately around one beat per second, but don’t do this too fast. Do this for five minutes.
  • Heat stroke: There are many causes of this including: hot cars, hot days, long walks, excessive panting. Signs that your pet as heatstroke include an extended neck, blue tongue/gums, frantic behaviour and collapse. To treat this, you must cool your pet down. Put the dog’s paws in water, use an ice pack, a river or stream, hose pipe, cold bath water, and place in the pet in the shade, wrap in wet towels around your pet during transportation to the vet.
  • Heimlich Manoeuvre or Drowning: This will remove items lodged in the pet’s throat and also water from the lungs. With small dogs/cats: hold up by the legs and slap the back of ribs or squeeze with both hands. For medium to large dogs: punch up and in, just below ribs in mid-line, and vigorously squeeze as in a hug. Don’t be afraid of hurting your pet – you may break a rib, but this can be fixed, whereas choking or drowning can be fatal.
  • Burns: First degree: reddening. Second degree: blistering. Third degree: full thickness skin loss. To treat use copious amounts of water and definitely no insulators (e.g.) oils, butter etc should not be applied. And, for Electric shock: remove from source and do not make the situation worse. You may have to resuscitate and cardiac massage. Exit burns are often found through the pads of the feet, treat these as you would with burns.
  • Bee and Wasp stings: For Bee stings use bicarbonate of soda (alkaline) as bee stings are acid. For Wasp stings use vinegar or lemon juice (acid) as wasp stings are alkaline. Always keep any eye on your pet in case of an allergic reaction to the sting.

Walk the Dog Puppies - puppy classes in Hertfordshire

We’re launching Walk the Dog Puppies on Tuesday 2nd February 2010. Our puppy classes will give you and your pup…



  • the opportunity to meet other young dogs

  • understanding of how dogs think

  • knowledge to help you avoid unwanted behaviours in the future

  • the basics you need from toilet training and recall to walking to heel

  • the tools you need to ensure you and your dog have a long and happy relationship

The classes start at 6.30pm to 7.30pm, at The Buglass Room, Village Hall, Leverstock Green, every Tuesday. For more information, email us at; info@walk-the-dog.net or call us at Walk the Dog on 01442 878628.

Research shows misunderstanding of dogs

Hanne Grice, a dog behaviour specialist and certified Dog Listener, is leading a research study into how well people understand dogs. Over one hundred people have participated in the study so far. Here’s a summary of some of our findings to date;

  • over 40 % of respondents have been bitten by dogs
  • only 20% of people correctly identified a picture of a dog smiling as being
    ‘friendly’. Most considered the showing of teeth to mean the dog was either
    aggressive or stressed
  • 54% of people believe a wagging tail only means the dog is friendly and approachable, but dogs can bite you when they’re wagging their tail

If you’d like to know more about our research, email us at; info@walk-the-dog.net Our findings will be published in spring 2010.

Dogs and cats - can they get along?

A common question we get asked is “Can dogs and cats get along?” There is a common misconception that the two species cannot live happily ever after within a home. While there are some breeds of dogs that do not naturally interact well with other pets most breeds can be taught how to interact calmly with cats and live together in a house.

The way the two species are introduced to each other, their age and the pet’s previous experience with the other species will impact their behaviour. When introducing your dog to your cat it’s vital to create a calm and controlled situation where the two can accept one another and a positive association can be built. Here’s some tips on how to achieve this;

  • Get a family member or friend to sit on the sofa with your cat at their side. Gently hold the cat and stroke.
  • With your dog out of the room, practice some ‘sits’ or ‘stays’ to get the dog focused onto you. Then bring him into the room on his lead (say nothing, no eye contact with the dog).
  • If the dog pulls towards the cat, barks or gets excitable upon seeing the cat, immediately take him out of the room (say nothing and no eye contact – so the dog understands why he is isolated). You may have to repeat this several times depending on his reaction.
  • Once the dog has settled, bring him back into the room. If he dog remains quiet and calm, sit him down away from the cat. Pop him into a ‘sit’ and reward with a very tasty treat and praise “good dog”.
  • The cat should be stroked or praised for being calm too.
  • Let the cat move away if he wants to, but keep hold of the dog’s lead in case he tries to go after the cat. Repeat all of the above until both pets are relaxed in one another’s company. You can build up to the point where the dog is off the lead.

A dog's sense of taste

The sense of taste is centred on the tongue; its superficial sensory cells known as taste buds act as receptors and these are arranged in groups so differing sensations can be tasted. A dog’s sense of taste is more poorly developed compared to ours. We have about 9,000 taste buds compared to the dog which has around 1,706. Taste buds are located mainly on the tongue, they help to distinguish four qualities; sweet, sour, bitter and salt. It’s not known whether the dog’s smaller number of taste buds indicates less ability to distinguish between taste subtleties, although this is likely.

It’s also thought that dogs have additional primary taste receptors like cats, that can respond to water. This means dogs may be able to taste different types of water.

Humans and dogs palatability is very different. A human will typically resist eating something that smells bad, while dogs are the opposite, the smellier the better! Studies of dogs trained to validate specific flavours show their selections are made primarily by the sense of smell instead of taste. So, dogs are more pre-occupied with the smell of the substance than the taste of it. Typically, dogs will eat almost anything without much discrimination, as they are opportunist feeders and their survival mechanism is so great that if there’s a food source there for the taking, they’ll take it. But there is evidence to suggest dogs can distinguish taste to a degree. Studies of wolves show they can develop preferences towards certain prey and when given the choice they pick one rather than another. And, behavioural processes involved in food selection can change in response to experience. Taste buds develop before birth in some mammals - the neonate is suckled by the bitch, whose milk will vary in quality and flavour depending on what she has eaten. This means dogs that experience a number of different flavours in their early years, may accept a variety of tastes better as adults. Interestingly, taste experience in the womb has also been suggested to play a role in the establishment of taste preferences and aversions expressed after birth. (E.g.) studies show that ‘in utero’ exposure to apple solution in rats resulted in an increased preference for that flavour later in life. Similar effects were produced by odours experienced in the womb. So, it seems reasonable to assume that similar effects occur in young dogs which may represent the first stage in the development of flavour preferences.

The sense of taste also enables the body to maintain a consistent chemical balance in the body (e.g.) humans may crave a sour food such as an orange as the body may need the essential vitamins contained within that fruit. So, perhaps when a dog eats grass, his body maybe craving the necessary chemicals or fibre contained within the grass?
The study of dogs’ senses is important as it helps us understand how they communicate. While a dog’s representation of the world must be very different from ours, in essence dogs and humans are, as Protagoras the Greek puts it, “nothing but a bundle of sensations.”

Top tips for having a safe Christmas

As the countdown to Christmas begins, we take a look at some of the festive pet hazards that lurk within our homes.

Dangerous dinners - Leftovers from the Christmas meal, such as turkey bones shouldn’t be given to your pet. Bones can splinter easily causing damage to the intestine, and can cause choking if they get stuck in your pet’s throat. Christmas stuffing often contains onions and garlic both these ingredients contain the toxic ingredient thiosulphate. This can cause haemolytic anaemia, where the pet’s red blood cells burst while circulating in its body. Symptoms include laboured breathing, liver damage, vomiting, diarrhoea, and discoloured urine.

Mushrooms should also be avoided as certain types can be fatal. Avoid giving your pet any fat trimmings too, as this can cause pancreatitis. ‘Pigs in blankets’ (sausages wrapped in bacon) are a delicious addition to any Christmas plate, but the high levels of salt can cause a dog to drink too much water, which can develop into a life-threatening condition called bloat.

Nasty nibbles - Entertaining guests typically brings with it platefuls of nibbles such as nuts, raisins, grapes and clementines. However, Macadamia nuts, walnuts along with most varieties of nuts contain high amounts of phosphorus which can lead to bladder stones. And, as little as six nuts are enough to cause some dogs to develop muscular tremors and paralysis in their legs. Raisins and grapes are toxic and in large quantities have proven fatal, so keep the mince pies to yourself. Clementine pips and the kernels of plums, peaches and apricots are easily dropped onto the floor, but these contain a type of cyanide compound that can poison a dog if it eats enough, resulting in dilated pupils, breathing difficulties, hyperventilation and shock.

Ghastly gifts - Pets, especially dogs, are particularly curious of mystery packages so, make sure you keep any edible treats stored safely away. Chocolate is bad for dogs as it contains a compound called xanthines. Ingestion of chocolate can cause muscle tremors, difficultly in breathing, irregular heartbeats and in some cases it can be fatal. Once you’ve opened your gifts, make sure you safely dispose of the wrapping, especially plastic bits such as bows and ribbons. Fake snow, tinsel and foil are all potentially dangerous. These can make your pet very sick and can cause serious, if not fatal, digestive problems or lacerations in their throat and mouth.

Terrible tipples - Most of us enjoy a tipple during the festive season, but remember that alcohol should be strictly kept in the hands of humans and away from furry paws! Dogs are much more susceptible to the poisonous effects of alcohol and ingestion can lead to laboured breathing, behavioural changes, hypothermia, seizures and cardiac arrest.

Poisonous plants - There’s nothing better than a kiss under the mistletoe, but make sure your pet doesn’t eat any. Mistletoe and holly berries are very poisonous, as are poinsettias, a favourite plant to spruce up your home at this festive time. Be aware of your pets drinking any Christmas tree water; the stagnant water can be very toxic to our four-legged friends, especially to cats.

Outdoor encounters - Make sure you keep antifreeze for your car out of your pets reach. Every year many pets are accidentally poisoned by it. The substance tastes sweet to pets, which encourages them to drink. As a precaution, don’t allow your pet to drink from any puddles particularly while out on a walk, as it may contain antifreeze.

Have a happy and safe Christmas with your pets!